Five watches and one invention that shaped what we think a fine watch should be.
A grail is the watch you'd own if money and waiting lists were no object. Each one here earned its place through a piece of history you can check. We leave prices out; they move with auctions and markets, and we'd rather point you to the story than a number that's out of date by next month.
The first Calatrava set the pattern for the classic dress watch: a small round case, a clean dial and nothing extra. Nearly a century later, it's still the shape most people picture when they hear the word "watch."
Source: Patek Philippe Calatrava
One of the first dive watches built for the general public, introduced in 1953 and shown at the Basel fair in 1954. Its layout (rotating bezel, big luminous markers, black dial) became the template for the dive watch.
Source: Rolex Submariner
Introduced in 1957 and chosen by NASA in 1965 after testing for crewed space flight. It went to the Moon with Apollo 11 in 1969, which is why collectors call it the Moonwatch.
Source: Omega Speedmaster
Designed by Gérald Genta, it was a luxury watch made of steel instead of gold, with an octagonal bezel and visible screws. It was controversial at launch. Today it's credited with creating the luxury sports watch.
Source: Audemars Piguet Royal Oak
Not one watch but an invention. Abraham-Louis Breguet patented the tourbillon in Paris in 1801. Two centuries later, it's still the complication that shows off a maker's skill.
Source: Tourbillon